Professional Climbers


How are the professional climbers reacting to all of the new climbing population? To be honest, the majority of them bring the new climbers into the sport.  Professional climbers such as Sasha Digiulian(19) and Ashima Shiraishi(11) have brought the most attention to climbing due to their young age.  They aspire many young women to want to train and become stronger than the boys.  Girls have seen this accomplished at such a young age and want to beat the boys.  The professionals love climbing so much that they want everyone to understand their passion, but climbing is such a hard passion to explain.  Some people live and breathe climbing, most people do not understand why anyone would want to live off peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and live of out a van for the rest of their lives, just to climb everyday. Now all this attention they bring to climbing is causing more and more people to start.  They are encouraging people to start climbing, but are they teaching them how to properly start? Do they know anything about climbing ethics? Probably not.  We could fix this predicament if all the experienced climbers provided a good example and taught others what they learned already.  The Access Fund has already begun to teach the "gumbies" by creating comical videos.

Sasha Digiulian


In the past year, Digiulian was the first and youngest American woman to climb 9a(5.14d), beginning with Pure Imagination at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky and about 6 months later with Era Vella in Spain.  Once her video of Pure Imagination released, she gained more popularity.  It showed that she not only can climb 5.14d(9a), but she is also attending Columbia University.   She continues to inspire young men and women to dream big all over the world and encourage growth in climbing. She did an interview with Seventeen magazine discussing how to look good while working out and encourage women to go out and climb.






Interview:

Seventeen: Rock climbing is such a cool sport, but not one girls typically think to explore. How did you get into it?
Sasha DiGiullian: I started rock climbing when I was seven at my brother’s birthday party. We went to a local climbing gym and I just really liked it. Going higher and higher was so exhilarating! I think it also helped that I was better than my brother.
17: How did you keep rock climbing after that?
SD: I joined the local climbing center in Alexandria, Virginia where I live, and just started gradually going there at first once a week, then twice a week, and gradually more often. One day when I was nine, I walked into the climbing center and a competition was going on — a regional championship. I had no idea there even were climbing competitions! Even though I hadn’t done the previous competitions to qualify, the judges let me compete, and I won in my category! Then, I started investigating competitive rock climbing and started training more seriously.
17: Do you work in a team?
SD: There is no team. It’s an individual sport and that’s what I really like about it. Your success is driven by yourself and you’re not dependent on anyone else.
17: How do you train for competitions?
SD: I climb, run, and do ab workouts. I do basic strength-to-weight ratio workouts like pull-ups and push-ups. Climbing really works your upper body and core, so you want to have really strong abs and strength-to-weight ratio.
17: Do you climb both inside and outside?
SD: I do most of my climbing outside. My biggest accomplishment was doing an 80-feet-steep climb in the Red River Gorge. The route was graded a 9A, which is the hardest any female has achieved.
17: What do you eat to give yourself the energy you need?
SD: Some of my favorite breakfast foods are bananas, oatmeal, and eggs, and I bring energy bars to eat when I’m climbing. The night before a competition, I eat a big pasta dish to carb up so I have energy to climb. The most important thing to have after a workout is protein. My favorite form of protein is fish. I love salmon. The way your body reacts to what you eat makes it worth it to eat healthy. A lot of it is just listening to your body and knowing how to fuel your muscles and giving yourself the energy you need to perform your best.
17: You’ve got such long hair! What’s your go-to hairstyle when you work out?
SD: The French braid. It is so key! It actually holds better when your hair is a little dirty, so after working out you can put your hair in a French braid and you look totally put together.
17: What beauty products do you stash in your gym bag?
SD: Even though rock climbing is pretty rugged, I’m actually quite girly! I always like to have my nails painted, even when I’m climbing. My favorite color is hot pink.
17: Do you like guys that are as sporty as you are?
SD: I go for sporty guys. I like guys who are self driven and confident in themselves.



Digiulian, Sasha. Interview by Seventeen Magazine. http://www.seventeen.com/health/sasha-digiulian-rock-climbing. Web. 1 Nov 2012.

Sam Speed




Local climber that moved to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky to accomplish what he could and completely throw himself into the sport.  So far he has climbed with many professionals such as Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, and Tommy Caldwell.  He is a inspiring local climber that has truly followed his dreams, even though he has only been climbing for about two years.  I was lucky enough to get an interview with him...




Interview:


  • Corinne Kinzy
    I'm doing a blog on whether Sasha Diguilian is the down fall of climbing or not, do you have any words of wisdom? And not just sasha, other professionals as well.
    I don't really care much, I just care about climbing. The media that her and professionals bring isn't great because it just creates crowds and access issues. For example, the red gets more and more crowded each year and eventually there won't be enough room and shit will get shut down because of idiots.
  • Corinne Kinzy What type of people come because of it? I'm quoting you on this by the way.
    Sam Speed
    All kinds, but mainly gumbies that don't know ethics and don't know proper ways to act at the crag. It also brings strong people, which is good but again it gets more and more crowded. Same with bringing climbing into the olympics, it would be good for the sport, bring money, and help but more and more people will want to be "climbers".
    Sam SpeedBut I don't really care, because I climb because I love it, not because of what others think or do. I do think if it becomes too mainstream then it will be harder for me to climb and thats stupid.Corinne Kinzy(haha) So you're being selfish in a way, because you love it so much?Sam SpeedYea sure, (haha) but not really, I don't care if people that have respect and aren't idiots climb, but the more and more dumbasses that do it, the worse it becomes. With over crowding, access, land issues, and injuries because people don't know what the heck they're doing.Corinne KinzyDo you think they should maybe make people take a class before they can climb at certain crags, kind of like a beginners class for skiers?Sam SpeedNo that is just kind of stupid. It probably would be good, but thats dumb. (haha) That is why there is Muir Valley! (haha)Corinne Kinzy(haha) Do you have any ideas of a way to help the new climbers that actually want to be good, but don't have the access to learn it?Sam SpeedNot really, Start climbing in a gym and get a base and climb with others that know what they're doing. Don't go out with a buddy who has never climbed and try to lead something because then you're going to get hurt.Corinne KinzyVery true, do you think they should establish specific crags that they can go to? Say if they can't pass a test.Sam SpeedThat would be nice, but that is not feasible to do. You can't, just for instance, put a gate in front of the motherlode and say if you can't climb 5.12 you cant come in. You can't just lock off crags like that.Corinne KinzyWhy not?Sam SpeedThere's no way to regulate that or control it. I just don't see a way to feasibly do something like that.Corinne KinzyDo you think there is a difference in people that are being brought to the crag between say Ashima and Diguilian or Woods and Ondra?Sam SpeednNo probably not, I would say alot of good climbers watch their videos and follow them just as gumbies. There are people from both sides that see them and think "oh I'll go climb there".Corinne KinzyYea, but Woods and Ondra aren't in seventeen magazine....Sam SpeedOh I didn't realize the chicks were! (hahaha) That is ridiculous, stupid, and definitely unneeded press.Corinne KinzyWell Sasha is in Seventeen.Sam SpeedOf course, Yea she brings bad publicity to the sport, but thats just part of it and its not going to stop. You just gotta deal. But I can't be too against pros and the press because that would be hypocritical. I definitely have pictures of myself, and have done photo shoots. Only not to try and get it out to the world. Just because I live and climb with photographers that like to take pictures and stuff.Corinne KinzyAlso, everyone loves watching themselves climb, you have to remember the beta somehow!Sam Speed(haha) Yea, I definitely don't really look at myself to remember beta though. I just remember it and climb it a shit ton! (haha)



    Speed,Sam. Personal Interview. 1 Nov 2012.