Sam Speed

Local climber that moved to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky to accomplish what he could and completely throw himself into the sport.  So far he has climbed with many professionals such as Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, and Tommy Caldwell.  He is a inspiring local climber that has truly followed his dreams, even though he has only been climbing for about two years.  I was lucky enough to get an interview with him...

Interview:

• Corinne Kinzy
  

  I'm doing a blog on whether Sasha Diguilian is the down fall of climbing or not, do you have any words of wisdom? And not just sasha, other professionals as well.
  

  Sam Speed

  I don't really care much, I just care about climbing. The media that her and professionals bring isn't great because it just creates crowds and access issues. For example, the red gets more and more crowded each year and eventually there won't be enough room and shit will get shut down because of idiots.
• Corinne Kinzy What type of people come because of it? I'm quoting you on this by the way.
  

  Sam Speed
  

  All kinds, but mainly gumbies that don't know ethics and don't know proper ways to act at the crag. It also brings strong people, which is good but again it gets more and more crowded. Same with bringing climbing into the olympics, it would be good for the sport, bring money, and help but more and more people will want to be "climbers".

  Sam SpeedBut I don't really care, because I climb because I love it, not because of what others think or do. I do think if it becomes too mainstream then it will be harder for me to climb and thats stupid.Corinne Kinzy(haha) So you're being selfish in a way, because you love it so much?Sam SpeedYea sure, (haha) but not really, I don't care if people that have respect and aren't idiots climb, but the more and more dumbasses that do it, the worse it becomes. With over crowding, access, land issues, and injuries because people don't know what the heck they're doing.Corinne KinzyDo you think they should maybe make people take a class before they can climb at certain crags, kind of like a beginners class for skiers?Sam SpeedNo that is just kind of stupid. It probably would be good, but thats dumb. (haha) That is why there is Muir Valley! (haha)Corinne Kinzy(haha) Do you have any ideas of a way to help the new climbers that actually want to be good, but don't have the access to learn it?Sam SpeedNot really, Start climbing in a gym and get a base and climb with others that know what they're doing. Don't go out with a buddy who has never climbed and try to lead something because then you're going to get hurt.Corinne KinzyVery true, do you think they should establish specific crags that they can go to? Say if they can't pass a test.Sam SpeedThat would be nice, but that is not feasible to do. You can't, just for instance, put a gate in front of the motherlode and say if you can't climb 5.12 you cant come in. You can't just lock off crags like that.Corinne KinzyWhy not?Sam SpeedThere's no way to regulate that or control it. I just don't see a way to feasibly do something like that.Corinne KinzyDo you think there is a difference in people that are being brought to the crag between say Ashima and Diguilian or Woods and Ondra?Sam SpeednNo probably not, I would say alot of good climbers watch their videos and follow them just as gumbies. There are people from both sides that see them and think "oh I'll go climb there".Corinne KinzyYea, but Woods and Ondra aren't in seventeen magazine....Sam SpeedOh I didn't realize the chicks were! (hahaha) That is ridiculous, stupid, and definitely unneeded press.Corinne KinzyWell Sasha is in Seventeen.Sam SpeedOf course, Yea she brings bad publicity to the sport, but thats just part of it and its not going to stop. You just gotta deal. But I can't be too against pros and the press because that would be hypocritical. I definitely have pictures of myself, and have done photo shoots. Only not to try and get it out to the world. Just because I live and climb with photographers that like to take pictures and stuff.Corinne KinzyAlso, everyone loves watching themselves climb, you have to remember the beta somehow!Sam Speed(haha) Yea, I definitely don't really look at myself to remember beta though. I just remember it and climb it a shit ton! (haha)
  
  

  

  
  
  Speed,Sam. Personal Interview. 1 Nov 2012.